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The central thesis of this book is fascinating, though ultimately kind of obvious: the encounter between the Old World and the New changed the way that every person on earth eats. Before Columbus, there were no tomatoes in Italian food, no chilies in Thai or Chinese food, no potatoes anywhere in Europe at all. Likewise, there were no pork or cheese in Mexican cuisine. Beyond pointing these things out, though, Sokolov gives micro-histories of both regions and dishes. This is a difficult task because of the depth of the changes that occurred. Can a complete or, even thorough, account be given of the food-ways of Puerto Rico, given its status as colony that was also a central hub of trade between Span and the Americas and even Asia? Hardly. That is a book unto itself. So also with most of the topics that must be covered in a book on this subject. Potatoes have a chapter, as do tomatoes and several tubers, and all of these chapters are full of interesting information (mostly). But none of them answer all the questions I have about the history of that item. (Thats not true. I had almost no questions about manioc.) A book about tomatoes, a book about potatoes, a book about apples...these would be more thorough. However, I understand that Sokolov didnt set out to write all those books, that he wanted a survey of the main topics. In this regard he does a good job. Of course there are some elements of style with which I could quibble. Sokolov is a journalist/columnist/writer of articles, and the style with which he writes is sometimes more wending than direct and the narrative structure of some chapters sometimes gets a little lost (again, a hazard of the topic). While at other times, it is obvious he is very excited about what he has learned and wants to share, for instance, every known dish that was recorded as being eaten in (Mexico?) by the conquistadors, including both the original native and Spanish interpretive names. And though his in-text citations are great, I would nonetheless have appreciated a bibliography. So, I know this doesnt sound like a 4-star review, and sort of nit-picky. But it was a very good book, but suffered from problems of programming. Its key failing was incompleteness, a fault that, if remedies, would make this book more than a thousand pages long. Finally, among the best parts of this book was the extended discussion on authenticity. In food culture now, authenticity is often seen as the greatest good, though authenticity is a tenuous claim or to make or defend. What is an authentic apple pie? The one your mother made? Your grandmother? Do you make it the same as your cousin? Do you make it the same every time? How can we convey a cultural idea from one group to another when the second has no understanding of the first? In fact, how do we define authenticity within a culture? Almost all the dishes eaten anywhere were all invented in the past 400 years, and most of them far more recently than that. They seem ancient and unchanging to use, but are in fact in a constant state of flux. All cuisines of the world are constantly encountering others and sharing with them, including our own personal cuisines. If that is the case, then what is authentic? What is a hybrid and what is a bastardization? This, ultimately, was the great thought-experiment of this book, rather than the main thesis. How do me create and maintain, and can we label an preserve a certain authenticity? What are the implications of that stance? Indeed, a more fluid understanding is ultimately best for all.

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